Julley! We recently completed the Spiti valley, starting from Chandigarh we covered Shimla, Sangla, Kinnaur, Spiti, Chandratal, Rohtang and ended at Manali. There are several good travel companies which provide packages to suit all age/gender groups including solo travelers. But we chose to customize our trip, as we were looking at spending some extra time in places of our choice. Though the trip had some unplanned changes in routes or stayovers due to some major landslides which resulted in the closure of routes near Nako for almost 3 days. Overall it was an amazing trip.

I will be talking about the complete itinerary including a few do’s and don’ts for the Spiti circuit. 

• If you are planning for the trip from June to November, it is possible to complete the entire circuit.
• However, if you are planning the trip during winters, the trip needs to start from Shimla, as Rohtang – Lahaul route remains closed due to heavy snowfall and reopens only by May – June.

Stops & stayovers with Itinerary

Day 1– Reach Chandigarh and head to Shimla. Night stay in Shimla. 

Day 2– Cover few places in Shimla and travel towards Sangla via Kufri. 

• If you are fond of trying local cuisine, take a break at any dhaba in Bhadal where they serve Himachali Lunch at just 25/-. (may be revised now)
• Before reaching Sangla, visit the Kamru Fort. Overnight at Sangla

Day 3– Drive to Chitkul. Overnight stay at Chitkul while you experience the majestic view of Baspa river

Day 4– Chitkul to Nako via Pooh, Sumdo. Overnight at Nako

Day 5– Visit Tabo, Dhankar and reach Kaza. Overnight at Kaza/Rangrik.

Day 6– Visit the three Gems- Langza, Hikkim (World’s highest post office), Komic. Gette (Optional). Overnight at Kaza/Rangrik

Day 7– Visit Pin Valley- Mudh Village. (More details in my other blog- click here). Overnight at Kaza/Rangrik or Mudh

Day 8– Visit the famous historical Kye monastery and Kibber. Overnight at Kibber

Day 9– Drive towards Chandratal, via Losar and Kunzum pass. Camp overnight at Chandratal and experience the scenic view and exhilarating winds.

Day 10– Reach Manali via Gramphu, Battal, Rohtang, Kothi. Overnight at Manali.

End of the trip

Detours

While driving towards Nako from Chitkul, we had to take a detour as there was a massive landslide in Nako. The road had washed out completely. Many vehicles were stuck for 3 days and we were hoping the road would be cleared by the time we reach Nako, that did not happen. Instead of reaching Nako and getting stuck, we decided to stay over at a place close to Shimla. Just in case, if we were forced to cancel the plan of the circuit we could re-enter Spiti through Manali. Hence, Kalpa happened. So, we went to Rekong Peo to spend the evening and stayed overnight in Kalpa. Even though it was a detour and unplanned, I am glad we did it. The magnetic view of Kinner Kailash from the hotel stole my sleep for the night. 

Few other options which can be considered in this circuit for a detour are…

• Staying at Tabo
• Staying in Mudh Village
• Overnight stay at Kye Monastery 
• Camping at Komic (world’s highest village connected by motorable road)

Expenses to complete Spiti Valley circuit, a key factor

• There are multiple travel companies operating in this area and they all have very good, affordable packages for all pockets.
• Since we opted for a customized trip for Spiti Valley, we ended up paying a little more compared to fixed packages, but it didn’t really hurt our budget considering the service, hospitality, arrangements, and experiences.
• Travel companies have various packages based on the number of days, backpackers, number of travelers, type of vehicle, the experience we are looking for, etc., the basic package could even start from a mere 7000 INR
• If you go through a travel company, usually breakfast and dinner are sorted. You need to only spend extra on lunch.
• Most of the places in this valley don’t have working ATMs (there is only 1 ATM in Kaza, and most of the time it runs out of money). Most shopkeepers, hoteliers, restaurants accept only cash. So, plan on carrying some liquid money and be safe.

Important tips for Spiti Valley travel – Dos and don’ts

• Greet people with a smile and say “Julley”. People of Spiti Valley love and encourage tourists by greeting.
• Spiti valley is a high-altitude valley and it is very important to be always hydrated and not to skip meals. This helps to avoid any mountain sickness or other health issues.
• Carry medicines for AMS (after consulting your doctor) as it can be a lifesaver when visiting Langza, Kibber, Komic, Hikkim, Chandratal (We Indians are used to breathing all sorts of air except oxygen in cities, so I don’t think altitude sickness should matter 😝)
• The Government hospital in Kaza is the only hospital in this valley.
• If you are staying in homestays, try to spend some time with the hosting family, it would help you learn about life in these tough terrains.
• Littering is a strict no-no. You are responsible for the junk that you carry.
• Don’t expect extensive services in Hotels, they may not be as equipped as you like it as the goods transfer is difficult and happens on a weekly basis.
• Ease your palate to taste the local cuisine and keep it simple. In places like Kibber, Chandratal, dal-rice is an alluring meal that you can get.
• Be patient, mobile signals won’t help you once you leave Reckong Peo. The only network which works at times is BSNL. Take advantage and disconnect from the outside world to enjoy nature’s majesty.

Uff! there’s more

• Carry less luggage as you literally won’t need it. At times you might have to take a walk with luggage as vehicles might not reach everywhere.
• Respect people and the place. In case you see someone asking for a ride, please oblige. They don’t mean harm to you. Ladies and kids usually walk 8-10 km daily to reach their farms/schools.
• Don’t forget to witness “milky way” especially in Kibber, Spiti Valley (sleep on the terrace of homestay you choose) and in Chandratal. That is the best feeling you will experience.
• Landslides, rain, snow slush are common, don’t make a big deal of it. Locals and BRO (Border Roads Organization) are experts in these situations – seek help.
• Respect and obey BRO warnings throughout the drive, they are serious and hilarious at the same time (read all of it on the way)
• Respect all monasteries and follow rules and please maintain SILENCE, as your fellow travelers may be seeking peace and solitude. Avoid loud music in these places
• Do send a postcard from “Hikkim” (World’s highest post office). Trust me, it gets delivered on time.
• “Meat lovers” be ready for preserved meat as that is what they can afford in these regions. That is the reason they live with simple food.
• Driving sedan/hatchback in these valleys are a big no-no due to
  • 1) Ground clearance
  • 2) roads are rugged and in bad condition in many places of Spiti Valley. Be ready for long and bumpy routes.
• Keep your eyes open, you might witness snow leopard, Himalayan ibex or many other animals which are exclusively found only in this habitat.
• Last but important- people love clicking selfies, but be careful as one mistake can take you down to steep gorges.

Recommendations

• Hotel Sukhsagar Regency- Shimla– it is in the outskirts of Shimla and far from the crowd (near Tara Devi station) and does have a lovely view of the valley when you wake up.
• Igloo nature camp- Sangla– right in the middle of an apple orchard and you see the majestic Kinnaur Kailash in front of you and Baspa river right beside the camp
• Kye Monastery– don’t expect a big room with attached bath. Rooms are small but when you get to stay in a 1000 years old Monastery- size should not matter.

So, pretty extensive huh! these are the details from my trip. What do you think about this? Let me know in the comments below.

Also, you feel free to reach out to me for any help regarding travel planning for Spiti or any other location of your choice 🙂